“Perfumer”: chapter “Chanel №5”

Ernest Beux was born in Moscow in 1881. He had to live Russia in 1919 becuse when communists became to rule the country.
Beaux was introduced to Coco Chanel in 1920 by Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, Chanel's lover at the time. Beaux was acquainted with the royal because his father had worked for the tsar (royal family).
When Mademoiselle Chanel asked him to work for her, in response to her request for a perfume, Beaux — according to his own words — presented her with two series of bottles, the first numbered 1 through 5, and the second, 20 through 24. According to Beaux' report of the meeting, she chose the bottle numbered "5" and, when asked what she would call it, told Beaux that she would call it "Number Five" — which she did.

Constructivism in fashion

This art movement that apperaed in Russia in 1920`s was a reply to the chages that came after Revolution 1917 year. People faced with new reality to work in fabrics. People was taught how to live in equal society and to share everything and with everyone. This make people to love their work places and make the beauty of fabrics ( metalic constructions, direct lines, sharp corners, red, white and blackk all these charactize constructivizm.
But constructivizm does not only apply to the art, fashion also took some features from it.
Several artists tried to work in clothes design with varying levels of success: Varvara Stepanova designed dresses with bright, geometric patterns that were mass-produced, although workers' overalls by Tatlin and Rodchenko never achieved this and remained prototypes. The painter and designer Lyubov Popova designed a kind of Constructivist flapper dress before her early death in 1924, the plans for which were published in the journal LEF. In these works Constructivists showed a willingness to involve themselves in fashion and the mass market, which they tried to balance with their Communist beliefs.

Polyakov: the best known russian male model

Danila Polyakov is one of the most popular models recently. He was born in Moscow, 24 years ago. But already he has succeded in the fashion world. Watanabe, Gauthier, Galliano, Yamamoto, Branquinho, Demeulmeesters, GF Ferre chose him.
No doubt that he is so popular for his extravagant appearance and behaviour. He is keen on playing with his androgonity. Transforming from a boy to a girl, and back.
written by Mayya Frid

Russian Fashion Week sping/summer 2009: 6th day

6th day
The sixth day and the last day of Russian Fashion Week was full of pleased surprises and unique new designer` s ideas. Moreover some of the collctions were presented not in its usual place Gostynnyi Dvor but in the Hodynskoe Pole.



Anna Assi
Best Night
The new collection spring-summer 2009 by Alina Assi finished the shows in Gostynnyi Dvor in Russian Fashion Week.
The designer created a luxury look of night female citizen - elegant style in luxury frame. She was full of brightness and she all shines.
Classical Evening and cocktail dresses were made of velvet and silk. There were a lot of different accessories and handmade embroideries on dresses.
Victoria Andreyanova
Black ribbons
A new season by Victoria Andreyanova was noticed by laconic, strict lines, shapes and lack of colourfulness. She presented a lot of variations of a little black dress. The only bright point was a red close to orange dress that make her collection alive.

So Russian Fashion Week one more time proved that this industry is developing and improving from season to season. The season spring-summer 2009 gives a lot of opportunities to Russians to replaced from time to time foreign dresses by our own talented designer´ s ideas.
What we expect from a new season that we will see this march is that do not copy the world brands, focus in our Russian individuality.

Russian Fashion Week sping/summer 2009: 5th day

The fifth day was a culmination point of Moscow Fashion Week. More then 40 collections had already been shown. So this day was consisted most of anniversaries of fashion houses.
Razu Mikhina
10 years later
The collection”10 years later” was a kind of the conclusion of all that Daria Razumikhina had already crated. But the first part was devoted to new style which really differed from usual “ethnofuturism” of Razu Mikhina brand. She proved that even in monoscale colours you could look fashionable and chic.
The second part was more conservative and you could find some kind of a repetition of all the previous works of the brand: dresses and skirts with Russian (more precisely Vologda´s) patterns.

Two Gun Towers
Collection spring-summer 2009
The new spring-summer 2009 collection of a duet irina Krupskaya and Andrei Melnikov one more time confirmed the reputation of this tandem as permanent source of interesting designer`s ideas.
The defile was converted into the art-performance which played with a number 10, because it was an anniversary collection for Two Gun Towers.The logo of the collection was “Fashion in Passion”. The extravagant and brave clothes was accompanied by seductive and wild collection of the Italian jewelry brand Zoppini.

Russian Fashion Week sping/summer 2009: 3rd day

The third day of the 20 season of Moscow Fashion Week was full of contradictions and contrasts. From calmness to extravagance, from sophistication to simplicity. And the obvious difference were precisely shown by the approaches to the production of shows of glamour young designers and renowned masters.
Slava Zaitsev
Spring-summer 2009
The show of a legendary Russian designer was not a traditional show of a collection, it was a performance or it could be defined as an art action which gathered a lot of Russian celebrities in the front row. Little plays changed each other one by one: a lady in red among men in beige suits; a crowd of amusing and cheerful men entertaining the public; Arabic motives and then a complete black podium with the arquitactural shaped dresses. So the main trends could be defined as high hats, massive chains made of pearl, and all the interpretations of 1980 s: wide shoulders, tight weight and huge jewelries.
Sylvie Burstin-Maria Pryor
Argentinean independence
Two girls Sylvie Burstin and Maria Pryor presented Argentina. While Sylvie Burstin paid a lot of attention on classical elegance and chic dresses haute couture Maria Pryor was inspired by old fairy-tales and legends. The girls passed the podium along with sharp ears and romantic dresses and looked like truly elf princesses.
Rosenfeld
“Barabella”
The endless sex symbol Jane Fonda as a space queen – was the symbol of this collection. So the main trend was the futuristic fantasies from 1960 s. But the sexy and the feminine side was presented by natural fabric and calm shades of white, grey and blue.

Russian Fashion Week sping/summer 2009: 4th day

The forth day was full of surprises that mostly were made by a great amount of celebrities on the stage.
Dorozhkina and Voronin
Present me the sun
The heroine of a new collection of Diana Dorozhkina is a beautiful young flirting girl. The variety and play of a yellow colour closed to gold and the sun reflected the kind and warm name of a collection .
The men´s collection of Mihail Voronin was made in a mature style which was covered by charm, positive atmosphere. The bright accents of green, yellow and blue make the suits more relaxed.
Tasha Strogaya
“Starlight”
The new collection of Tasha Strogaya was inspired by the fashion icons of 1980-1990 s: Christie Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Nadya Aurman.
The designer considers that that they were the most important persons at their time with their individual and unique beauty. Usually the collection of Taha Strogaya are very feminine but know she mixed it up with some sporty features.
Sergey Sysoev
Number 9
The fashion-code of a new collection of Sergey Sysoev was the number 9. Each dress contained one of the certain 9 pieces of clothing or accessories. He also used wildly bright printed flowers in skirts which were completed by cold natural scale.
Teplitskaya
Flight Liverpool-New Deli
The idea of the collection was announced as a faithfulness and a protest, which unites the loved hearts.
The character was a girl of an old family, who is reay to abandon her house and family to be with her lover. The main colours were very positive and colourful. Ethnical and folklore fantasies were also mentioned in her collection.